White Oak Akashi 5 year old

The Eigashima distillery on the Akashi Strait near Kobe may be the least well known of Japan’s single malt plants but has a sound claim to be the country’s oldest as its license to make whisky was granted in 1919 — four years before Yamazaki was built. It has however specialized in shochu and even now only turns its hand to whisky making for two months every year. This 5 year old — bottled for independent Japanese specialist Number One Drinks — represents a tentative move into the single malt market once more. Pale in color it shows a typically Japanese cleanliness on the nose that’s cut with a touch of waxiness. It opens with a scented angelica-like lift there’s even a whiff of something like gooseberry jam. As it opens the aroma darkens slightly showing a touch of roasted tea. Water brings out a little yeastiness (typical for some younger whiskies) alongside cucumber borage and lime. The palate is sweet with vanilla custard and a sweet ginger-accented note leading to ripe pear.

A charming malt and already well-balanced for its age. Here’s Japan at its lightest. £55. Price in US dollars converted at time of review.