Wemyss Malts Rhubarb Royale (distilled at Benrinnes) 2001

Here is Benrinnes in very summery guise, with its signature meatiness barely discernible. Instead you get lots of thyme, rosemary, and dried citrus peel. The palate is clean and concentrated, with a tart drive akin to red currant. It is this jangly effect which shows the need for dilution. Water does improve things, and while the sour fruits are still there, the effect is more calm. It does lack length though. £65